How much is that doggy in the window?

It's a total coincidence that our favorite county in mainland China was also the place where we witnessed the slaughter of dozens of dogs.  

 The idyllic countryside (Yangshuo, 2008)

 Mike in front of a group of shacks (Yangshuo, 2008)

 The Li River (Yangshuo, 2008)

In Yangshuo, dog meat is a regular part of the local cuisine. Though we never ate it ourselves, it would have been easy enough to try if we had wanted to, as a steady supply of freshly slaughtered canine flowed into the hands of cooks who frequented the main market in town. The restaurants there likely served it up in a tangy sauce with a side of rice, and it might have actually tasted okay... maybe... if we'd thought it was something else. But we’ll never know.   

The dogs were kept, killed, and gutted in the middle of this bustling market. (Yangshuo, 2008) 

 Needless to say, dogs were not treated as "pets" in this part of China. Though we did occasionally come across some scraggly mutts patrolling the lanes between rice paddies-- we assumed they were kept around to protect the chickens-- we never once saw a dog on a leash, in a purse, or riding in a car with a human. The poor fellas were there to do a job or be eaten-- at least that's how it seemed. 

In Taipei, however, the dog has a higher status. We've seen them perched in Prada bags while their owners shop. We've seen them riding in bike baskets and sitting on scooter seats during the rush hour commute. We've even seen one out for an evening stroll-- I kid you not-- clad in an embroidered robe with matching boots. It's clear the pooch is widely loved here--and not as part of a delicious meal. 


So I wasn't that surprised when we stumbled upon a whole street devoted entirely to pet shops. Conveniently located at the end of a neon-lighted night market offering cheap food, toys, and clothes, "puppy row," as I like to think of it, is a cesspool for impulsive purchases of cuteness. It was hard to even get a picture because the sidewalks in front of the stores were so clogged with sugar-high little girls and boys just begging their parents for a new best friend. 

But I kept walking and found row upon row of these glass cages.

 Spaniels and wiener dogs are super popular. 

Adorable and sad at the same time.

The unfortunate part is that most of these doggies are obscenely little and look way too young to be adopted. It's actually pretty depressing seeing them all caged up-- but at least they aren't headed for slaughter?   

I'd be seriously shocked if "dog" was on any menu here. I don't know about the rest of the island, but in Taipei you're way more likely to find a pup dressed up in bows than diced up in soup. 

And that's yet another reason why I love this place. 

Tasty Eats: Part 1

As you probably already know, I looove to eat. Food excites me, and visiting places where there are tons of new foods to try is one of my favorite things about traveling. So let me provide fair warning: if you’re still following this blog, you can expect more posts about food than you’ll care to read. 

Thankfully, since the unfortunate incident on the plane, we’ve had lots of good food experiences. Here are some of our favorites from our first week: 

Veggie Heaven

There are tons of vegetarian-only restaurants in our neighborhood. You can fill up your plate with whatever you want, and pay by weight. It is so good. 




Plum Flavored Potato Chips

Chip flavors are totally different on this side of the world. In the mainland, my favorite flavor was tomato. I discovered these plum chips here, and I love 'em just as much. They are like a salt and vinegar chip with a hint of tangy sweetness. Yummm. (As a side note, Mike went for the Steak and Garlic variety, and reported that they were also good). 




Real plums, and various other fresh fruits

Sweet and delicious. We got a whole bag full for for less than $1.

These may look like the grapes at home, but they don't taste the same. The flavor reminds me of purple Dimetapp, totally sweet without any sourness. 

The dragon fruit is beautiful, but to be honest, it doesn't taste as good as it looks. The markets are jam packed with other interesting looking fruits, though, and we will try more soon. 




Lots and lots of baozi (steamed buns)

The pile of baozi we picked up at the market down the street. 

Pickled bamboo stuffed baozi

Cabbage stuffed baozi

My favorite steamed buns are stuffed with juicy pork and green onion. Unfortunately, having one of those first thing in the morning (when they're mostly sold) is kind of like having a burger for breakfast. Tasty, but generally a bad idea. 




Hot Pot! 

Our plates are empty because we just keep eating! 

We splurged on prime beef for this hot pot night. The thin slices cooked in less than 10 seconds once we dipped them in the boiling broth. 

I'm getting sleepy, but I can't stop.

Mike feels uncomfortable when I snap a shot of him working the pot. 

Alas, here comes the hot pot coma. 

Taipei: A "Civilized" City

Four summers ago, Mike and I were on a high speed train traveling from Shanghai to Beijing when we met a burly gentleman from Alabama who promptly struck up a conversation with us despite our best efforts to avoid his notice. He was in his mid 60's, retired, and apparently lonely for English-speaking company. So we chatted with him for quite some time about his life experiences and general philosophies, which he readily dispensed for our benefit. In his job as an international businessman, he had traveled all over Southeast Asia and had thereby developed various opinions about that part of the world. To be honest, we didn't take seriously most of he said. 

However, after all these years, one of his maxims has recently resurfaced and proven itself true. Somewhere in the course of lauding the-merits-of-Taiwan-as-he-saw-them, he asserted in his deep southern drawl, “Taiwan is civilized.” (Afterwards, we laughed briefly about his seemingly bigoted perspective, and repeated the phrase in mockery of his accent. Then we pretty much forgot about it.)  

The word “civilized” certainly didn’t enter our consciousness when we decided on Taipei for the summer; yet, as we have navigated the city these past four days, we’ve witnessed example after example of just how civilized this place really is. In stark contrast to cities in mainland China-- where diaper-less babies defecate on sidewalks and desperately poor hawkers exploit foreign visitors, where there is no such thing as a “line” and ducks are raised on sidewalks-- everything in Taipei is clean, orderly, and commonsensical. 

Me and some ducklings on a sidewalk in Nanjing, China - 2008

There are just so many systems that work here. Our trip has been ultra-smooth so far, and I really think it's because we are in such an ultra-smooth, civilized city. And it makes me wonder, why can't we adopt more of these systems in more U.S. cities? 

So here it is:

Ten Systems That Work in Taipei (so why not St. Louis?)

#1. Public bike rentals

These rental stations are ubiquitous around the city center. All you have to do is put money in the meter and take the bike away. You can return it to any of the many stations when you’re done.

#2. Free wifi

Minutes after our arrival in country, Mike received a text message prompting him to activate his cellular-based wifi account. Basically, anyone with a cell phone here has free access to the internet. 

#3 Pedestrian tunnels

Crossing a busy street clogged with cars and scooters can be difficult and time consuming. Rather than waiting for the light to change, you can hop under ground and walk safely to the other side in no time. 

#4 Criss-cross-walks

Tunnels aren't everywhere, so you do sometimes have to get to the other side the above-ground-way. But why make two crosses when you could get it done in one? The criss-cross-walk makes so much sense! 

#5 Timed traffic lights

Every traffic light is timed so you know exactly how many seconds are left before they change. This is helpful for drivers and pedestrians. 

#5 Reliable taxis; honest and friendly taxi drivers

Getting screwed by a taxi driver was a common threat in the mainland. Not so in Taipei. In fact, when we were lost looking for our apartment, and we hopped in a taxi as a last resort, the driver refused to charge us because it wasn't that far and he had trouble finding it, too. 

#6 Excellent public transportation

Okay, so living in St. Louis where the public transportation is under-used and under-supported makes me really appreciate a good system. The metro here is super easy to navigate, as long as you can read English or Chinese. Busses are also everywhere and the stops are clearly labeled. 

#7 Queues, queues, queues

Wherever large numbers of people are waiting for something, queues are quickly formed. There are even lined rows leading up to where the metro doors will open, so those waiting can position themselves exactly where they need to be. This is sooo unlike the mainland where we were often nearly trampled as hordes of commuters rushed for a spot onboard. 

#8 Free, easy public recycling 

St. Louis city only recently started providing free public recycling. The town of Osage, Missouri still doesn't and this fact always causes some poor bastard to cart home tons of bottles, boxes, etc. from the  Lake Trip. The powers that be in Osage could learn a thing or two from the Taiwanese. 

Too many old, unwanted receipts? They've got a recycling system for that!

#9 Plastic bag reduction incentives

7-11s are everywhere; there's one on almost every corner. Every time you buy something there and don't use a plastic bag, you get a sticker--which we assume you collect and eventually trade for something you might actually want. 

#10 The washer/dryer in one unit 

Admittedly, I don't know a whole lot about American laundry appliances, but I've never seen a machine in the states that both washes and dries your clothes in one cycle. If an American company makes one, I want to know about it so I can get one when the time comes.  

Apartment in Xinyi

Yesterday, we got the keys to our apartment for the next month. It's located in the same district as Taipei 101 and the World Trade Center. More pictures and details about the neighborhood coming soon! We love it!! 

The Long Shlep

Every sizable international journey begins, as a matter of course, with one loooong shlep from point A (home) to point B (your city of choice on the other side of the world).  While the best travelers handle this sort of trek with aplomb, the rest of us just barely manage to plod through with dignity in tact. It is sweaty and uncomfortable and disconcerting 99.9% of the time, and there is almost nothing one can do about it.  

Yet, once our plane landed in Taipei this Saturday, Mike and I both decided that our trip-- shlep though it was--was actually not all that bad.  And in spite of a rather trying instance of food poisoning, we felt pretty good upon arrival 24 hours after our departure from St. Louis. We were tired, but happy to have finally made it. 

So with the entire incident now a few days behind us, I feel that I have recovered enough to offer a few tips for those of you who’d like to try this journey for yourself. After all, if we decide to stay longer next time, we know you’ll want to visit! 

Here it is:

How to Survive the Loooong Shlep from St. Louis to Taipei

*Please note that I am no expert of any kind on foreign travel and that I will not be held responsible for any unforeseen snafus you may encounter if you do make the trip. 

Tip #1 When selected for a random pat down, agree to do it right there. 

When the brawny lady security officer at Lamber says you’ve been selected for a random pat down, are you comfortable doing it here? simply nod your head and say yes, like I did. Sure, you aren’t going to like it when she molests you from top to bottom, but you’d much rather bear it in front of 100 witnesses than all alone in the creepy back room she likely brings you to if you say no. It wasn’t that bad, and thanks to my cooperation, we made it through security in a flash.

Tip #2 Bring as many devices as possible, as long as they don’t quadruple the number of people. 

Even if you aren’t selected for a random pat down, the security line is a bitch. You never know what they want you to get out, and the more technology you have with you the more you have to worry about whether or not you’re following the rules. 

Among the goods we shlepped 7000 miles: 2 MacBooks, 2 IPads, 2 IPods, and 2 IPhones. Do you see where we went wrong here? That’s 8 devices for two people, and way too much electronic weight. I now realize that there must be a cut-off somewhere. Next time, I think we’ll limit ourselves to six or less. 

Tip #3 Hurry up and wait.

This became our mantra at Lambert Airport and stuck with us throughout the entire trip. The secret here is to rush to get to wherever you are going so you can hurry up and wait once you get there. If you are overly early for everything, you will have several stress-free hours to kill as you wait for the next leg in the journey. 

We arrived at Lambert with about 2 hours free after we made it through security.

Luckily, we discovered these pleasant rocking chairs and an entirely empty gate. 

In LAX, we also went straight through security, and had four easy hours to kill at the Tom Bradley International Terminal (now known to us as the suckiest terminal on the West Coast-- but more on that later). 

After drowning ourselves in $60 worth Gin and Tonics at a sleazy little bar, we felt resigned enough to purchase some ridiculously overpriced sandwiches from one of the only two food stands, and with our tummies filled, waited contentedly for our group to board. Little did we know how much we would regret this purchase.  

Tip #4 Don’t buy a $13 pre-packaged Panini from the Samuel Adams food stand in LAX. 

If you do, there is a 50/50 chance you will contract food poisoning and spend the first four hours of your 14 hour flight puking your guts out as Mike did on our recent trip. I can’t give many details, as-- bless Mike’s gracious spirit-- he let me sleep soundly through the entire ordeal. But, I do know that we both ate one of those nasty Paninis and only one of us ended up passed out on the floor in the back of the plane with an indubitable sense that this whole things was a big mistake. 

For those of you concerned with Mike’s health and safety-- yes, he did faint while waiting to use the bathroom, but on the plus side, he regained consciousness fairly quickly and made it to the toilet before any chunks were spewed. Thankfully, I had listened to him when he insisted on getting an isle seat, so he didn’t have to climb over any strangers while staggering back to the latrine again and again. 

Tip #5 Get an aisle seat.

The poor man who got stuck with the window seat in our row only got up once during the brief hour or so that Mike and I were both conscious. 

He was courteous, and we are forever in-debt to him for that. But you don’t want to be like him, finding yourself nailed to your chair by an inconvenient sense of social propriety. It is a long 14 hours and you definitely want easy access to the bathroom in case of emergency.

Tip #6 Splurge on a nice hotel for your first night or two in country.

When we finally made it to our hotel in Taipei, we had gone over 40 hours without a change of clothes or shower. Arriving to the glorious HD Palace was one of the happiest moments of our life!

The Hotel HD Palace, outside.

 Such a comfortable bed! Plush mattress! Down comforter! 

 View from our window of Taipei 101-- so we could still feel like we were site-seeing when we holed up for a few hours after the long journey. 

 The best bath / swimming pool I have ever used in my life. Wasteful? Yes. But a totally satisfying guilty pleasure.

 Phew! Private western Toilet-- completely worth the extra $.

 Have you ever dreamed of spying a bustling city from your bathtub? I had, and now my dream has come true. 

A Dog Days Get Away

When Raeann and Phil asked us to look after Stella and Izzy while they vacation in Florida, I couldn’t say no.

Stella and Izzy

Was I compelled by a vague sense that their place (which I had only visited once) was way nicer than mine? Of course I was. Did I see an opportunity to relax in the hot tub Rae subtly mentioned when issuing the request? You bet. 

These two clearly needed the vacation. 

Actually, I do have some experience looking after other people’s dogs. My first job in 8th grade entailed feeding, watering, and walking Gussie’s dog, Maddie, every day after school. Obviously I got into that job for access to a better house, too. She had CABLE for crying out-loud (a technological phenomenon that, at 24, I’ve still never enjoyed in a home of my own), and she had a well-stocked pantry. 

Luckily, I made all my mistakes with that first gig (just ask Gussie), so this time things went pretty smoothly. Plus, I had a serious Dog-lover with me to do all the dirty work, like playing fetch with slimy golf balls, and dispensing meat sticks whenever a reward seemed due. 

Truth be told, it actually felt more like a vacation than a job, and one that I can highly recommend to anyone considering a Dog Days Get-Away when R&P go on another trip in July. 

Here it is: 

 A Guest Review of L’Eschmann Inn 

Key Words: suburban, shabby-chic, complementary wine, complementary coffee, doggie-oasis, hot tub

L’Eschmann Inn is a suburban dreamland. Located in the upwardly mobile, liberal leaning ex-hippy Mecca that is Webster Groves, 412 South Gore exudes a laid-back shabby-chic vibe. From the speckled white brick exterior to the casually ajar wooden shutters, every detail at the L’Eschmann Inn appears inadvertent, and yet, absolutely perfect.  

Upon arrival at the Inn, we helped ourselves to not one but two bottles of complimentary wine, as well as a fresh meal from Staub’s Market-- a neighborhood staple for well-to-do foodies that’s just minutes down the road. Any edibles from this Cadillac of Grocery Stores would have been a real treat; yet, let me say that what we enjoyed was particularly delicious: herb roasted turkey breast, crisp cucumber salad, and creamy new-potatoes-- all at no cost to us. Thanks, Management!

After watching Stella and Izzy inhale their own unpalatable food in less than 30 seconds, we took our wine outside where we relaxed on matching lounge chairs and spent the evening as anyone would: playing fetch with the most cooperative dogs Mike has ever met. Not only do they enthusiastically chase what you throw, they also bring it back AND drop it in your lap. For Mike, it just doesn’t get any better than this. 

Following a truly blissful night sleep on R&P’s king size bed, which I’m betting contains some sort of tempur-pedic element, we awoke early to the sound of birds singing and dogs barking. Fresh complimentary coffee was provided, while for breakfast we had our pick of nearly expired eggs, toast, or Hot Pockets. I went for the eggs, whereas Mike selected a Hot Pocket which he purported as absolutely delicious and convenient.

 We were all a little sleepy after the 6AM wake-up game of fetch. 

Endless amusements presented themselves after breakfast; each day provided something new and entertaining. The most fun was had, however, when Lucy (Mike’s parents’ dog), stopped by for a play date. All three canines romped around L’Eschmann’s sprawling backyard, as all three humans watched and laughed. Lucy was convinced she had finally discovered the true doggie-oasis she’d been dreaming of from her backyard tie-up in Bell Nor, and she thought it mighty fine to run freely.  

Stella and Lucy; They might be long-lost sisters. 

The maid service at L’Eschmann Inn is impeccable, as those dogs’ tongues leave no dirty surface unpolished, and for added benefit, the front desk provides clean towels AND a mini-chocolate bar on each fresh pillow in the master bedroom. 

Television access requires at least a cursory knowledge of remote controls; navigate at your own risk. The flat screen in the living room is slightly more forgiving than the one in the bedroom, so my advice is to stick with that one. Yes, TV trays are provided for your convenience. 

Stepping stools are not provided, so the vertically-challenged should bring their own if they want to put detergent in the washing machine, access the available cooking spices, or use one of the baking pans. 

Hot tub usage is strictly self-service. But, if you don’t mind conducting a chemistry experiment every time you want to take a salubrious dip, you can spend hours in their 93-degree tub of quietly bubbling water. The placidity will only be disturbed if Stella and Izzy start wrestling.

All in all, a vacation at the L’Echmann Inn is well worth it for the playful company, clean sheets, and full cash-refund provided by Hotel Management. 

We sincerely enjoyed our stay!